The Physics of a Perfect Wave

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Some beaches are known for being legendary surf spots. They get their status thanks to bathymetry and the physics of waves. And recently a team of physicists used math to decode the secret formula behind those gnarly waves. Hosted by: Savannah Geary (they/them) ---------- Support us for $8/month on Patreon and keep SciShow going! https://www.patreon.com/scishow Or support us directly: https://complexly.com/support Join our SciShow email list to get the latest news and highlights: https://mailchi.mp/scishow/email ---------- Huge thanks go to the following Patreon supporters for helping us keep SciShow free for everyone forever: Eric Jensen, Garrett Galloway, Jp Lynch, Toyas Dhake, Lyndsay Brown, Friso, Cye Stoner, Chris Mackey, Jeremy Mattern, Matt Curls, Chris Curry, Fahmy Issa, Reed Spilmann, David Johnston, J.V. Rosenbalm, Jaap Westera, Blood Doctor Kelly, Adam Brainard, Bethany Matthews, Piya Shedden, Jason A Saslow, Joseph Ruf, Kevin Bealer, Kevin Knupp, Alex Hackman, Chris Peters, Steve Gums ---------- Looking for SciShow elsewhere on the internet? SciShow Tangents Podcast: https://scishow-tangents.simplecast.com/ TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@scishow Instagram: http://instagram.com/thescishow Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/scishow Bluesky: https://bsky.app/profile/scishow.bsky.social #SciShow #science #education #learning #complexly ---------- Sources: https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQXMzjjRKnP2sFoJoJDmGN7Cv3z4QOoGRvbSSV4kKH7crO6ITODBMCCjXygXqaFgDcVYeK6TOTqVamn/pub